Why Israeli Wine is World Class (My Philosophy on What is Good Wine)
Posted on August 18, 2008
Israeli wine is world class. Yes, we’ve heard this recently from the likes of Robert Parker, Mark Squires, Gary Vaynerchuk, Wine Spectator, Decanter, and other wine critics and trade publications. But I think they’ve all got it a bit wrong.
Don’t misunderstand me. I’m not necessarily disagreeing with their scores and I’ll take the 93 that the Wine Advocate (Robert Parker and Mark Squires) gave the Yatir Forest. Rather, my wine philosophy is that Israeli wine is not world class because of the absolutely excellent Yatir Forest red wine or the Israeli wine that comes from Domaine du Castel but might be mistaken for the finest French chateau. Rather, Israeli wine is world class because of the Carmel Private Collection and its continued rise. Wine from Israel is world class because Gary Vaynerchuk referred to the Segal Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Merom Galil) as better than most California Cabernet Sauvignon’s, yet this wine costs less than $15. Wine from Israel is world class not because the Yarden El Rom Cabernet can be cellared for the next decade or because the latest vintage of the Yarden Katzrin can be a gift for your child’s 21st birthday. It’s not world class because Daniel Rogov gave the 2004 Yarden Ortal Syrah a score of 91. Rather, wine from the emerging eastern Mediterranean region is world class because the Golan Cabernet Sauvignon – the lowest level wine from the Golan Heights Winery – is wonderful, pleasant, and easy to drink vino.
Israeli wine is world class not because the Galil Mountain Winery makes an excellent Yiron and Yiron Syrah, but because the regular series wines – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Barbera, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Viognier – are all winners and all provide excellent value for money. Several of these wines are even available in supermarkets throughout Israel! Israeli wine isn’t world class because of the Recanati Special Reserve but rather because Recanati’s “regular” line of varietal red and white wines all provide high quality at an everyday price. Israeli wine is world class because Ze’ev Dunie doesn’t overcharge on the awesome and unique Sea Horse label.
I firmly believe that a country is not producing world class wine because their top-of-the-line wine is excellent. That’s not my philosophy when it comes to wine, that’s not accessible for most people, and that doesn’t let people who have a normal budget and a regular salary enjoy the fruit of the vine. Israel isn’t world class because our top wines are world class. We’re world class because we are producing excellent supermarket wines. We’re world class because great wines are produced in Israel that are affordable for a picnic, for a middle class person, for every day and not just a wedding, anniversary, or other special occasion.
I don’t always drink the most expensive wines. But in Israel, I don’t have to. I can drink world class wines at affordable prices. Quality wine comes in all price ranges. That’s why Israel makes world class wines.
» Filed Under Israeli wine industry | 3 Comments
Rogov’s Reviews: Best Deals on Local Wines
Posted on August 17, 2008
The latest Ha’aretz review from Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov. This time, on what he calls good values in local wines. Note that all the prices are the Israeli local price and not abroad. Are the non-kosher wines available in the US beyond those carried by Israeli Wine Direct?
Wine and Spirits / Best deals on local wines
By Daniel RogovFinding good bargains for local wines these days is becoming increasingly difficult, the very best wines being justifiably expensive and, somewhat sadly, several of the smaller wineries putting price tags on their wines that are simply not justified by the quality of their products. While it is true that there are a good many wines on the shelves, especially of supermarkets, of imported wines that sell for as little as five or six bottles for NIS 100, those wines in general are best described as being unappealing to anyone with even the least developed palate.
The good news is that there remain good bargains and following are reviews of wines, all ranging in quality from good to excellent and most at prices ranging from NIS 39 to NIS 120. As always, K denotes kosher.
Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet with orange and green reflections, medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins integrating nicely and showing light spicy oak. Opens with currants and plums, goes on to wild berries and hints of black licorice and chocolate. Long, round and generous. Drink now-2010. NIS 120. Score 91. K
Dalton, Rose, 2007: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, rose petal pink towards orange, with red berry, dried cherry and a hint of what might be citrus. Barely off-dry with plenty of acidity to keep it lively and with a pleasing light frizzante note, a refreshing and fun wine. Drink now. NIS 39. Score 87. K.
Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2006: Rich and concentrated, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting its 10 months in barriques with gently spicy oak. On the nose and palate a generous and intriguing array of aromas and flavors, including currants, blackberries and plums, nutmeg, sag and vanilla, and ending with the tannins and oak rising on the finish together with hints of grilled beef and cloves. Drink now-2010. NIS 240. Score 90.
Sea Horse Winery, Petite Verdot Plus, Israel, 2005: A blend of 66 percent Petit Verdot and 34 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in American oak barriques for 20 months. Medium- to full-bodied, with velvety smooth tannins, generous oak and an abundance of currant, blackberry, pomegranate, cola, ginger and black pepper aromas and flavors. A fine match to lamb chops, steaks or penne pasta with a spicy tomato sauce. Drinking very nicely now-2010. Available only at the winery. NIS 75. Score 89.
Gush Etzion, Cabernet Franc, 2005: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of tar, bitter-sweet chocolate and spices overlaying blackberry and blackcurrant fruits. On the long finish appealing hints of mint. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K
Gush Etzion, Nahal Haprim, 2005: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, this full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (60 percent, 25 percent, 10 percent and 5 percent respectively) was aged in new French oak for 14 months. Soft, mouth-coating tannins open to reveal currants, and red berries on a light leathery and peppery background. Drink now-2010. Score 89. K
Soreq, Merlot, Kerem Tal Shachar, 2005: Made entirely from Merlot grapes, showing soft tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to reveal generous cedary blackberry and wild berries, those on a background of sage and minerals. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 89.
Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Terra Rossa, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with firm, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely. Aromatic and flavorful, with red plums, raspberries and currants matched by minerals and light hints of herbaceousness. Round, long and generous. Drink now-2011.NIS 67. Score 89. K
Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2005: Medium-dark ruby in color, with berries and black currants backed up comfortably by near-sweet tannins and hints of spicy wood, all coming together beautifully. Drink now-2010. NIS 67. Score 89. K
Tulip, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet, full-bodied, showing still youthful firm tannins that need time to integrate. A blend of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged in new French oak barriques, showing fine balance between spicy wood and fruits. Opens to reveal blackberry, currant and light leathery notes, all on a generously peppery and vanilla-rich background. Long and juicy. Drink now-2011.NIS 85. Score 88.
Tabor, Cabernet Franc, Rose, Adama, Charsit, 2007: The best and most refreshing rose from the winery to date. Cherry-red in color, crisply dry, with a tempting array of raspberry, red and black cherries and watermelon fruits all on a crisply dry and tangy floral background. Drink now.NIS 39. Score 88.
Somek, Bikat Hanadiv Reserve, 2004: A generously oak-aged blend of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 percent Merlot and 5 percent Petite Sirah, showing good balance between spicy wood and firm tannins. On first attack purple plums and blueberries, those yielding to black fruits, chocolate and hints of espresso coffee all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2009, perhaps longer. NIS 95. Score 88.
Somek, Carignan, 2004: Oak-aged for 20 months in French barriques, medium-bodied, with generous black fruits, spicy oak and vanilla, a softly tannic wine that opens nicely on the palate. Plenty of spicy wood here but that well integrated and, on the long finish hints of orange peel and chocolate. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 88.
Somek, Merlot, 2004: Deep ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins. Showing spices and vanilla from its oak-aging, those parting to reveal a generous array of currant and wild berry fruits and, on the moderately-long finish an appealing hint of Mediterranean herbs. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 87.
Galil Mountain, Rose, 2007: A blend this year of 82 percent Sangiovese, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 8 percent Barbera. Baby-blanket pink in color with generous raspberry and cherry fruits along with hints of blueberries. Crisp and refreshing. Drink now. Score 87. K
Odem Mountain, Nimrod, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely, and a pleasant hint of oak from its 18 months in barriques. Flavors and aromas of black fruits along with hints of anise and chocolate. Round and generous. Drink now. Score 86.
Odem Mountain, Nimrod, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2004: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and generous but not overpowering oak. Currant, blackberry and plum fruits with a nice hint of dark chocolate on the finish. Drink now. Score 86.
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Agur Winery (French)
Posted on August 14, 2008
Israeli wine isracontact.com - wideo
He speaks in French and Hebrew, so I only understood what Agur Winemaker Shuki Yashuv said in Hebrew, but for Francophiles, this is a little taste of Shuki Yashuv and Agur Winery. I had the pleasure of tasting Agur at the Jerusalem Wine Festival and was absolutely blown away by this great wine. As of the 2007 vintage, it’s also a kosher wine - but no difference in quality (well, an improvement, if anything) between the 2007 and prior vintages.
» Filed Under Israeli wine industry, Video | 1 Comment
Tu B’Av: The Holiday of Love and Wine
Posted on August 13, 2008
This weekend is the little-known Jewish holiday of Tu B’Av, the 15th of the Hebrew month of Av. This unique holiday is not one marked by fasting, or extra praying, or lighting candles or other similar rituals. Rather, this day marks love and is celebrated by eating good food and drinking summer wine. Whether Jewish or not, it’s a great opportunity to drink wine from Israel.
Tu B’Av is not viewed as one of the major Jewish holidays, but it is more widely observed than one may think. Observant Jews and both religious and secular Israelis often get married on the 15th of Av, similar to many getting married on Valentine’s day, except that it comes less than a week after the conclusion of the “Three Weeks” in which marriages are traditionally not held. Particularly in Israel, this holiday is also observed in other ways.
As Daniel Rogov describes, “A truly light holiday on which unmarried young women would dress in borrowed white dresses to go out and dance in the vineyards. It goes without saying that the young unmarried men of the community joined them and it did not take long until the holiday became associated with match-making and weddings. That the holiday probably had its origins in pagan mid-summer solstice celebrations has long been forgotten by most but that the holiday has come to be known as “the holiday of love” still rules supreme.”
But, most importantly, it’s a great holiday to drink rose wines, light white wines, and sparkling wines or champagne. This year, it falls over the weekend. What are you drinking this weekend?
Here are some suggestions for Israeli wines for Tu B’av:
Gamla Brut, Yarden Brut, Yarden Blanc de Blancs, Carmel Brut, Pelter Blanc de Blancs
Yogev Rose, Galil Mountain Rose, Recanati Rose, Tabor Rose
» Filed Under Israeli wine industry, Kosher and Jewish | 2 Comments
Carmel, Avidan, Pelter, Chateau Golan, Savion: Daniel Rogov’s Reviews
Posted on August 7, 2008
Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov’s latest wine review in Ha’aretz continues the last post of Carmel’s rise in quality and includes numerous great Israeli wines. Read the full review here or below:
Wine and Spirits / Critics’ darling
By Daniel RogovIn recent months Israeli wines have become the darling of critics in the United States. Several months ago, for example, Robert Parker, by far the most influential wine critic in the world, tasted 90 Israeli wines. In his prestigious Wine Advocate he gave 13 of those wines scores of 90-93, reserved for wines of “exceptional complexity and character.” Equally important, 58 wines received scores of between 85-89, putting them in Parker’s ratings as “wines that are very good to excellent.”
Even more recently, Wine Spectator rated 39 Israeli wines, of which 13 attained scores of 90 or 91 (outstanding and of superior character and style), while the remainder received 87-89 points (very good, wines with special qualities).
Just as not all of the wines of Bordeaux, Tuscany, Rioja or California are “great,” neither are those of Israel. The happy truth, however, is that it is very difficult to deny that Israel is most definitely on the world wine map, with some very fine wines indeed. Following are tasting notes for recent releases from Carmel and several smaller wineries.
Carmel, Limited Edition, 2005: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (65 percent, 17 percent, 15 percent and 3 percent, respectively). Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and reflecting its 15 months in barriques with light toasty and spicy oak. Blackberry, black cherry and purple plum on first attack yield to blackcurrant and appealing hints of lead pencil and vanilla and, on the long, mouth-filling finish, a near-sweet and elegant tobacco note. Round and elegant. Drink now through 2013. NIS 230. Score 92. Kosher.
Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2005: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, full-bodied, with silky tannins, wood and fruit showing fine balance and structure. Opens with a burst of dark plum and currant yielding to notes of asphalt, bitter herbs and sweet-and-spicy cedar wood. Comes together as elegant, complex and long. Drink now through 2012. NIS 120. Score 91. Kosher.
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2005: Dark garnet with green and orange reflections, full-bodied, open textured and generous showing a spicy, peppery mouthful of blackberry, currant, coffee and black olive notes, all leading to a long, round and mouth-filling finish on which one finds an appealing note of vanilla. Oak-aged for 15 months. As this one develops in the bottle look for an appealing hint of smoked meat. Drink now through 2013. NIS 120. Score 91. Kosher.
Carmel, Chardonnay, Appellation, Upper Galilee 2007: Light golden with green tints, medium-bodied, showing an appealing array of citrus, green apple and tropical fruits on a mineral-rich background. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 88. Kosher.
Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2007: Medium-bodied, with gentle sweetness backed up lively acidity. Light gold in color with orange reflections, aromatic, unoaked and showing tempting aromas and flavors of oranges, litchi and rosewater. A good aperitif or dessert wine. Drink now through 2009. NIS 60. Score 88. Kosher.
Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2006: Medium-dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with velvety tannins. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, black cherry, tar and spices coming together beautifully and opening on the long finish to show a hint of sweet chewing tobacco. Drink from release through 2012. NIS 130. Score 91.
Pelter, Shiraz, T-Selection, 2006: Dark ruby, full-bodied but with such fine balance between tannins, oak, acidity and fruits that it seems to almost float on the palate. On first attack generous blackberry and currant yielding comfortably to plum, licorice and spices, all of which carry on to a long and generous finish. Best 2009-2013. NIS 160. Score 91.
Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2006: Rich and concentrated, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting its 10 months in barriques with gently spicy oak. On the nose and palate a generous and intriguing array of aromas and flavors including currant, blackberry, plum, nutmeg, sage and vanilla, and ending with the tannins and oak rising on the finish together with hints of grilled beef and clove. A fine wine but frankly overpriced at NIS 240. Drink now through 2010. Score 91.
Avidan, Reserve, Shiraz, 2006: Deep garnet in color, dense, intense and full-bodied and unfolding on the palate to reveal soft, mouth-coating tannins, rich blackberry, dark plum and peppery spices, along with overall fine balance. Long and generous. Drink now through 2012. NIS 120. Tentative score 89.
Avidan, Blend des Noirs, Orange, 2006: Garnet toward royal purple, an oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Medium- to full-bodied with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant opening to show notes of orange peel and chocolate. Drink now through 2010. NIS 75. Score 86.
Avidan, Blend des Noirs, Red, 2006: Aged in French and American oak for 10 months, a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah (45 percent, 35 percent and 20 percent, respectively). Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky, somewhat coarse tannins, showing straightforward berry and currant notes. A pleasant, country-style wine. Drink now. NIS 75. Score 85.
Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Blended with 15 percent Merlot and developed partly in American and partly in French oak, medium- to full-bodied, with now softened tannins and vanilla-rich wood. Opens to reveal currant, blackberry, black cherry, spicy cedar and hints of sage. On the long finish, cherry and berry fruits rise. Drink now through 2011. NIS 75. Score 90.
Chateau Golan, Geshem White, 2007: An oak-aged blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, French Colombard and Roussanne (63 percent, 29 percent, 7 percent and 1 percent, respectively) that cannot help but call to mind the white wines of the Rhone Valley. Opens with a floral, almost honeysuckle nose and then goes on to show melon, white peach, almond and buttery notes on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, smooth and creamy in texture, a quiet wine, elegant perhaps but lacking the mineral and acidity in the backbone that might have elevated it to a far higher level of enjoyment. Drink now. NIS 155. Score 88.
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Carmel Winery’s Quality Revolution Continues
Posted on August 5, 2008
Carmel’s quality revolution is not over. In the past few years, Carmel Winery has made serious changes in management, viticulture, and structure. They created new excellent top level wines including the Appellation series which provides great value-for-money and the Single Vineyard smash hits. Slowly and unnoticed by us “wine snobs” their supermarket Selected and Private Collection brands have also significantly improved in quality. With the 2007 Private Collection series, Carmel has taken the next leap forward. I’ve known about these changes in the Israeli wine world for a few months and have been in anticipation of finally being able to release the great news.
Three major changes have taken place with this latest vintage:
- Private Collection wines will not be mevushal - neither in Israel nor abroad. For the past several years, Private Collection wines were not mevushal in Israel (where it’s less of a concern even among kosher wine drinkers) but they were mevushal abroad due to the different requirements of the kosher wine industry, particularly in North America. Yet, the mevushal (flash pasteurizing) process is the one - and only - issue in kosher wines that can lower quality. So, in the name of quality (even if it means foregoing some the kosher restaurant market in North America and kosher banquet-hall events), Private Collection wines – including those sold outside of Israel – will no longer be mevushal. Those who are used to this wine outside of Israel will see an increase in quality and improved cellaring potential.
- Improved branding/new labels – Branding and wine marketing is more than just a passion of mine, it is reality. People don’t drink wine if the label is ugly or if it’s associated with past vintages. Carmel and especially the Carmel Private Collection still has a bad reputation due to Carmel’s past history. So, people avoid the wine based on the past – not the present. So, beginning with the 2007 vintage Carmel will have a new label – reprinted below.
- Significant raise in quality. Carmel’s wines keep on getting better and better. Just look at Rogov’s newly released tasting note for the newly released Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (and remember, this is the Private Collection, not the higher end series):
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2007: A blend of 50% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged partly in stainless steel and partly in French and American oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle spicy wood influence, opening in the glass to show black and red berries and notes of purple plums on a background that hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Drink now-2010. Suggested retail price NIS 50. (About US$ 14) Score 87. K (Tasted 2 Aug 2008)
I plan on picking up a bottle (or more) of the 2007 Carmel Private Collection. What about you?
» Filed Under Israeli wine industry, Kosher and Jewish | 2 Comments
Gary Vaynerchuk & Wine Library TV taste non-kosher Israeli wine
Posted on August 4, 2008
These wines are all available for purchase in the United States via Israeli Wine Direct and in Israel at your local high class wine store!
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Israeli wine for Shabbat
Posted on August 1, 2008
I will be drinking the 2007 Yarden Gewurztraminer tonight with a Shabbat dinner of sushi. This light wine with a variety of foods and this unique varietal is grown in the Golan Heights’ volcanic soil. The 2007 Yarden Gewurztraminer displays an aromatic mix of characters: juicy litchi, fresh flowers, green apple, orange blossom, persimmon and a hint of fresh mint and spice. The wine’s very subtle sweetness makes it great as an aperitif or with a meal.
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Happy Birthday to me
Posted on July 31, 2008
Yom Huledet Sameach. Happy Birthday to me. Yes, today is my birthday. I won’t say how old I am except that I am older than 21. So it’s not often that I ask for wine gift baskets or Israeli wine gifts. But, as a birthday present to me, I have a few suggestions - which will benefit readers of this blog:
- Make a donation: Check out the Amazon.com Honor System badge “Support the Israeli wine revolution.” Your donation will help support this blog’s hosting costs and allow me to review wine.
- Make a purchase: HaKerem: The Israeli Wine Blog Store has basic items on Israeli wine, wine accessories, wine gifts, and books about Israeli food, the culture of Israel, and Israeli wine.
- Buy me some wine. If you know me, or live in Israel, feel free to send me some wine! E-mail me for details.
L’chaim! To 120 for me and you!
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Barbera – Italian Wine becomes Israeli
Posted on July 29, 2008
Israeli wine made from the Barbera grape are becoming more and more popular. Several new wineries have been introducing this Mediterranean varietal into their wines. Originally seen only by Dalton and Recanati, Galil Mountain has also recently introduced an Israeli Barbara. Barbera is not known much outside of Italy, but it is one of the most common varieties in Italy – a country not too far away from Israel: both are in the Mediterranean region.
The Jerusalem Post recently wrote a review of Galil Mountain’s new wine and had this to say about the varietal:
The grape produces a light, fruity and aromatic wine that a lot of people compare to Beaujolais, with nice bright acids and low tannin. It’s a red than can easily be drunk young, also like Beaujolais, but with its solid strength of acid, it lasts a bit longer in the bottle.
….
In Israel the Barbera grape is not widely planted and so far only few of the local vintners have experimented with this variety. As the grape has natural high acidity, it desires to be grown in a hot climate where the temperature variations of hot days and cool nights make good growing conditions for finer fruit.
This is what the Post’s critic said of Galil Mountain Winery’s new release:
The Barbera 2006 of the Galil Mountain winery is actually a lovely wine with a solid core of blackberry and cherry flavors. I don’t have the chance to drink too much of this variety, but no doubt Vaadia has bottled an excellent opportunity (especially for new wine drinkers) to explore yet another varietal. Not over oaked, with notes of vanilla, it is an easy-drinking, well balanced wine that goes down bright and clean. Think young, fruity and fresh, and this one will be more than satisfying. NIS 60. (kosher)
Compare this to Daniel Rogov’s review of the Galil Mountain Barbera 2006:
Galil Mountain, Barbera, 2006: Showing darker, deeper and even more impressive than at an advance tasting. Now showing medium- to full-bodied, almost inky ruby towards garnet in color, with its impressive 15% alcohol content in fine balance with wood, tannins and fruit. On the nose and palate blackberries, blueberries, plums and violets, those supported nicely by notes of vanilla, milk chocolate and, rising on the long finish notes of black pepper, minerals and red cherries. Generous but gently mouth-coating tannins, fine concentration make this supple wine a fine candidate for drinking now or for cellaring until 2011. About as fine as you’re going to find anywhere with Barbera. At NIS 60 (about US$ 18) unbeatable value for money. Score 91. K
Have you had this wine yet? What do you think about either the Galil Mountain Barbera or the Barbera varietal in general?
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