Rogov’s Reviews: Bustan - Small But Special

Posted on June 21, 2008

Following is Daniel Rogov’s latest review in Ha’aretz. This week he reviews the Bustan Winery and Saslove. I admit that I haven’t had either, but I plan on tasting some at some upcoming wine festivals over the next month. Bustan is available in North America (imported by Royal) and Saslove is available in Canada, as its winemaker Barry Saslove is originally from Canada but has lived in Israel for several decades.

Wine and Spirits / Small but special

By Daniel Rogov

Founded in 1994 and set on Moshav Sha’arei Tikva in the Shomron region, the Bustan Winery has earned a good name for its distinctly French-style wines. Even though this tiny winery produces only about 2,000 bottles annually, the wines are sought after by many, as they have been not only consistently excellent but interesting.

Perhaps no less important, the vast majority of the Bustan wines have earned scores of 90 or above. The winery has just released three new wines, and those are available at branches of Derekh HaYain in Tel Aviv and Gush Dan, as well as at Avi Ben and Shachar in Jerusalem.

Bustan, Syrah, 2005: Full-bodied, opening with a burst of sweet and savory super-soft tannins, those parting in the glass to reveal layer after layer of blackberry, plum and citrus peel notes, complemented by black tea, white pepper and, on the long finish, a hint of peppermint. Concentrated, intense, well focused, supple and harmonious with a super-long finish. Perhaps Bustan’s very best to date. Drink now-2013. NIS 140. Score 92. K

Bustan, Merlot, 2004: Aged in barriques for 22 months, dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color but casting purple and orange reflections. Full-bodied, with big but velvety smooth tannins and showing a tempting array of blackberries, spices, dark chocolate, green olives and a light note of grilled meat. Luscious and long. Best 2009-2012. NIS 140. Score 92. K

Bustan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark, almost impenetrable royal purple in color, full-bodied and powerful, with soft, mouth-coating tannins along with aromas and flavors of black currants, blackberries, plums and spices, all with notes of chocolate, minerals and cedar wood. Long and generous. Best 2009-2014. NIS 140. Score 91. K

Four new releases from Saslove

The wines of the Saslove Winery, established by Barry Saslove in 1998 on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region, have been of interest and high quality since they were first released. The winery has Upper Galilee vineyards currently planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and plans to grow Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Gewurztraminer grapes in the future. The winery recently opened a new facility primarily for receiving and fermenting grapes in the Upper Galilee, not far from its vineyards. The barrel room and visitor’s center remain on Kibbutz Eyal.

Current production of red wines is in three series, Reserved, Adom and Aviv, and production is currently about 75,000 bottles annually. The wines can be purchased directly at the winery, but are also to be found at all serious wine stores in the country.

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 2005: Developed in primarily new French and American oak for 24 months, super-dark garnet, full-bodied with once gripping tannins now settling in nicely and well balanced by spicy and vanilla-rich wood. On first attack, blackberry and black currant fruits, with a hint of bitter orange peel, and all supported nicely by notes of Oriental spices, licorice, asphalt and vanilla. Long and generous. Drink now-2011. NIS 160. Score 91.

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adom, 2005: Well-crafted. Full-bodied, reflecting its 20 months in oak with firm tannins integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich cedar. Opens with black currants and wild berry fruits, those yielding to notes of black cherries, orange peel and, on the long, generous finish, an appealing hint of white chocolate. As the wine develops look for notes of sweet herbs coming in nicely. Drink now-2012. NIS 90. Score 91.

Saslove, Merlot, Adom, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, with fine concentration yet soft and supple, with generous but not imposing wood after 20 months in French and American oak. Opens with bold aromas and flavors of toasty oak and freshly roasted coffee, those yielding nicely to a generous array of cassis, purple plum and black cherry fruits, complemented by hints of bittersweet chocolate and spices. Drink now-2011, perhaps longer. NIS 110. Score 90.

Saslove, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, Adom, 2005: Developed in oak for 20 months, this blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon will remind many of the Mollydooker wines of Australia. Dark garnet, full-bodied, with firm tannins and peppery wood notes, those given a racy feeling by generous currant, cherry and raspberry fruits. On the background, tantalizing hints of pepper and tar, all culminating in a long, mouth-filling finish. Drink now-2012, perhaps longer. NIS 110. Score 91.

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Comments

2 Responses to “Rogov’s Reviews: Bustan - Small But Special”

  1. Eli on June 22nd, 2008 02:15

    Hi,
    Shame on you!
    Not being familiar with Barry Saslove, being a very remarkable person, winemaker, and having a great family in the business.
    Excellent wines and a pioneer in the Israeli wine industry.
    Eli

  2. WTG on June 22nd, 2008 08:54

    I second the Barry Saslove plug. A fabulous man & winemaker! And while we’re at it, Yakov Fogler of Bustan is a very special man & winemaker himself. Having had the privilege to help both men out during their harvests I can say that they are each brilliant in their own right!

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