Teperberg 1870: Rogov’s Reviews

Posted on July 17, 2008

Israeli winery Teperberg 1870The following is a review from Daniel Rogov of one of my favorite Israeli wineries - Teperberg 1870. This winery represents the Israeli wine revolution as it existed since the 19th century, but making kiddush wines of no interest to those looking for quality wines. Yet, they have undone significant changes with the younger generation of the Teperberg family (this Israeli winery remains in the control of the same family for over a hundred years). They have moved to a new winery and are making really great wine, including some new varietals (which Rogov reviews) which will not be released for another 6 months to a year.

Teperberg 1870 - A giant awakens

By Daniel Rogov

Founded in 1870 by the Teperberg family in the Jewish quarter of the old city of Jerusalem, in 1964 the Teperberg winery was relocated outside the walls, to Motza, on the outskirts of the city, and there took on the name Efrat. For much of that time it produced primarily sacramental wines for the ultra-Orthodox community.

During the 1990s it also started producing table wines, and in 2002, under the supervision of California-trained winemaker Shiki Rauchberger, the winery began producing wines designed to appeal to a more sophisticated audience.

The winery has returned to its original name, Teperberg, and uses the Efrat label for just one series. With the exception of the barrel room, the winery has moved to new facilities on Kibbutz Tzora, and construction continues apace, with the new barrel room now underway and plans for permanent offices and a visitors’ center now in the planning stage.

With almost 90% of their vineyards now no more than 30 minutes from the winery and with new state-of-the art equipment, the change from the old location at Motza is a remarkable one, almost like seeing a sleeping giant awake and move into a new century.

The following wines are all selling for NIS 40-60, and are a good value for your money.
Teperberg, Merlot, Terra 2005: Developing nicely and showing as well now as at earlier tastings. Garnet to royal purple, medium to full-bodied, with still-gripping tannins in fine balance with wood, fruits and acidity. On first attack black fruits and a light earthy overlay, which yield to raspberries, currants and minerals. On the mouth-filling finish generous hints of bittersweet chocolate and licorice. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Dark to inky garnet, full-bodied, reflecting its 15 months in oak with gentle spices and a bare hint of smoke. Showing still firm tannins, which need only a bit of time to settle down, and already showing fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate an appealing array of spicy currant, blackberry, cedar and mineral notes, with a light hint of anise on the long and generous finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Score 89. K

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with raspberry on the nose. Raspberry, cherry and cassis fruits keep the red-fruit tendency on the palate as well, showing good balance between firm tannins that need a bit of time to fully integrate, fruits and natural acidity. A long, gentle and near-elegant finish. Best 2009-2011. Score 88. K

Teperberg Malbec, Terra, 2007: Nicely focused, with black cherry, currant and cocoa notes along with hints of sweet toast and vanilla. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, this most assuredly is not an Argentinean Malbec but a very pleasant Mediterranean version. Drink from relese-2010. Score 88. K

Teperberg, White Riesling, Late Harvest, Silver, 2007: Light golden, with moderate sweetness offset nicely by natural acidity and a relatively low alcohol content (about 10.5%), opening to show dried apricots, honeyed apples and a good hint of pepper. Lively and fresh, as good as an aperitif as a dessert wine. Drink now-2011. Score 88. K

Teperberg, Sangiovese, Silver, 2007: True to the Sangiovese traits, showing a medium-dark garnet to ruby, medium-bodied, with spice, anise and cedar notes highlighting currant and wild berry fruits. Not overly complex but flavorful and rich. Drink from release. Score 87. K

Teperberg, Petite Verdot, Terra, 2007: Medium-bodied with spicy overtones and soft tannins. A supple, almost velvety wine with currant, tobacco and floral aromas and flavors with both tannins and fruits rising comfortably on the finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 87. K

Teperberg, Merlot, Silver, 2007: Made entirely from Merlot grapes, dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and light spicy and vanilla notes from exposure to primarily French oak for six months. Opens to show berry, black cherry and purple plum fruits on a lightly spicy background with a hint of black olives coming in on the finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 86. K

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Silver, 2007: Garnet to royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a generous sense of spiciness. An appealing melange of black and red fruits along with light notes of tobacco and chocolate. Drink from release. Score 86. K

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Terra, 2007: Lightly exposed to oak, medium-bodied, with somewhat chunky country-style tannins and opening to show a blackberry-cherry personality. A pleasant quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K

Efrat, Merlot, Israeli, 2007: Garnet to royal purple, medium-bodied with soft tannins and appealing berry and cassis notes. Soft, and round, the wine was blended with 10% Shiraz and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now-2009. Score 85. K

Efrat, Chardonnay, Israeli, 2007: Medium-bodied, reflecting 3-4 months in stainless steel with oak staves by a light hint of spicy wood. Fresh and aromatic, with appealing citrus, tropical fruits and pear fruits. Lingers nicely. Drink now. Score 85. K

Efrat, Sauvignon Blanc, Israeli, 2007: Straw colored, light- to medium-bodied, with appealing pineapple, citrus and mineral aromas and flavors. Served very well chilled, the wine becomes a good summertime quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K

Pick up a bottle of Teperberg 1870 today. If your local wine store doesn’t carry this great Israeli wine, ask for it. It also makes great wine gift baskets for wine lovers.

» Filed Under Israeli wine industry, Rogov Tags: Tags:, , , , ,

Comments

Leave a Reply