Rogov’s Reviews: Best Deals on Local Wines

17 Aug
2008

The latest Ha’aretz review from Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov. This time, on what he calls good values in local wines. Note that all the prices are the Israeli local price and not abroad. Are the non-kosher wines available in the US beyond those carried by Israeli Wine Direct?

Wine and Spirits / Best deals on local wines
By Daniel Rogov

Finding good bargains for local wines these days is becoming increasingly difficult, the very best wines being justifiably expensive and, somewhat sadly, several of the smaller wineries putting price tags on their wines that are simply not justified by the quality of their products. While it is true that there are a good many wines on the shelves, especially of supermarkets, of imported wines that sell for as little as five or six bottles for NIS 100, those wines in general are best described as being unappealing to anyone with even the least developed palate.

The good news is that there remain good bargains and following are reviews of wines, all ranging in quality from good to excellent and most at prices ranging from NIS 39 to NIS 120. As always, K denotes kosher.

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet with orange and green reflections, medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins integrating nicely and showing light spicy oak. Opens with currants and plums, goes on to wild berries and hints of black licorice and chocolate. Long, round and generous. Drink now-2010. NIS 120. Score 91. K

Dalton, Rose, 2007: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, rose petal pink towards orange, with red berry, dried cherry and a hint of what might be citrus. Barely off-dry with plenty of acidity to keep it lively and with a pleasing light frizzante note, a refreshing and fun wine. Drink now. NIS 39. Score 87. K.

Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2006: Rich and concentrated, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting its 10 months in barriques with gently spicy oak. On the nose and palate a generous and intriguing array of aromas and flavors, including currants, blackberries and plums, nutmeg, sag and vanilla, and ending with the tannins and oak rising on the finish together with hints of grilled beef and cloves. Drink now-2010. NIS 240. Score 90.

Sea Horse Winery, Petite Verdot Plus, Israel, 2005: A blend of 66 percent Petit Verdot and 34 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in American oak barriques for 20 months. Medium- to full-bodied, with velvety smooth tannins, generous oak and an abundance of currant, blackberry, pomegranate, cola, ginger and black pepper aromas and flavors. A fine match to lamb chops, steaks or penne pasta with a spicy tomato sauce. Drinking very nicely now-2010. Available only at the winery. NIS 75. Score 89.

Gush Etzion, Cabernet Franc, 2005: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of tar, bitter-sweet chocolate and spices overlaying blackberry and blackcurrant fruits. On the long finish appealing hints of mint. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K

Gush Etzion, Nahal Haprim, 2005: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, this full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (60 percent, 25 percent, 10 percent and 5 percent respectively) was aged in new French oak for 14 months. Soft, mouth-coating tannins open to reveal currants, and red berries on a light leathery and peppery background. Drink now-2010. Score 89. K

Soreq, Merlot, Kerem Tal Shachar, 2005: Made entirely from Merlot grapes, showing soft tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to reveal generous cedary blackberry and wild berries, those on a background of sage and minerals. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 89.

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Terra Rossa, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with firm, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely. Aromatic and flavorful, with red plums, raspberries and currants matched by minerals and light hints of herbaceousness. Round, long and generous. Drink now-2011.NIS 67. Score 89. K

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2005: Medium-dark ruby in color, with berries and black currants backed up comfortably by near-sweet tannins and hints of spicy wood, all coming together beautifully. Drink now-2010. NIS 67. Score 89. K

Tulip, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet, full-bodied, showing still youthful firm tannins that need time to integrate. A blend of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged in new French oak barriques, showing fine balance between spicy wood and fruits. Opens to reveal blackberry, currant and light leathery notes, all on a generously peppery and vanilla-rich background. Long and juicy. Drink now-2011.NIS 85. Score 88.

Tabor, Cabernet Franc, Rose, Adama, Charsit, 2007: The best and most refreshing rose from the winery to date. Cherry-red in color, crisply dry, with a tempting array of raspberry, red and black cherries and watermelon fruits all on a crisply dry and tangy floral background. Drink now.NIS 39. Score 88.

Somek, Bikat Hanadiv Reserve, 2004: A generously oak-aged blend of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 percent Merlot and 5 percent Petite Sirah, showing good balance between spicy wood and firm tannins. On first attack purple plums and blueberries, those yielding to black fruits, chocolate and hints of espresso coffee all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2009, perhaps longer. NIS 95. Score 88.

Somek, Carignan, 2004: Oak-aged for 20 months in French barriques, medium-bodied, with generous black fruits, spicy oak and vanilla, a softly tannic wine that opens nicely on the palate. Plenty of spicy wood here but that well integrated and, on the long finish hints of orange peel and chocolate. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 88.

Somek, Merlot, 2004: Deep ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins. Showing spices and vanilla from its oak-aging, those parting to reveal a generous array of currant and wild berry fruits and, on the moderately-long finish an appealing hint of Mediterranean herbs. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 87.

Galil Mountain, Rose, 2007: A blend this year of 82 percent Sangiovese, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 8 percent Barbera. Baby-blanket pink in color with generous raspberry and cherry fruits along with hints of blueberries. Crisp and refreshing. Drink now. Score 87. K

Odem Mountain, Nimrod, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely, and a pleasant hint of oak from its 18 months in barriques. Flavors and aromas of black fruits along with hints of anise and chocolate. Round and generous. Drink now. Score 86.

Odem Mountain, Nimrod, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2004: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and generous but not overpowering oak. Currant, blackberry and plum fruits with a nice hint of dark chocolate on the finish. Drink now. Score 86.

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