From Ha’aretz, Daniel Rogov reviews the Israeli wines from Recanati, Yatir and Avidan.

Wine and Spirits / Notable from Recanati

_{By Daniel Rogov}

From its inception in 2000 to the present, the Recanati winery has offered a generous selection of wines, many of which have been consistently excellent. Located in the Hefer Valley in the northern part of the Sharon region, the winery relies on grapes from its own vineyards, as well as contract vineyards, located in the Upper Galilee.

The winery produces wines in several series: the top-of-the-line age-worthy Special Reserve wines, which are often blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; and two varietal series, Reserve and Recanati, which now include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay and most recently Sauvignon Blanc. Current production is of about 600,000 bottles annually.

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Deep royal-purple, full-bodied, with firm, still rough-edged tannins, those integrating nicely with light spicy wood and fruits to show fine balance and structure. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot, this is a big, rich and bold wine, with concentrated layers of currant, blackberry, anise and sweet cedar flavors. Drink now-2013. NIS 185. Score 92. K

Recanati, Cabernet Franc, Reserve, 2006: With its once firm tannins now integrating nicely, showing medium-dark garnet, full-bodied, and reflecting its 14 months in oak with generous but not imposing sweet cedar. Opens with blueberries and blackberries, those going on to show black cherry and plum fruits highlighted by notes of tobacco, bell peppers and a hint of licorice, all lingering nicely on the finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 120. Score 91. K

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Showing better than at an earlier tasting. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with softly caressing tannins and showing a generous array of blackcurrant, wild berry and purple plum fruits, those supported nicely by hints of sweet herbs. Rich, round and generous. Drink now-2011. NIS 95. Score 90. K

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Shiraz, Special Edition, 2007: Lives nicely up to the good reputation that this wine has earned in past years. A blend this year of 60% Petite Sirah and 40% Shiraz, dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied, showing soft, well integrated tannins and just the right note of dusty oak. On the nose and palate: blackberries, blueberries and cassis, those matched nicely by notes of chocolate and mocha. Simultaneously “fun” and elegant. Drink now-2011. NIS 75. Score 90. K

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2007: Crisp and aromatic, unoaked and showing fine fresh fruit and good balancing acidity. Light straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, with appealing grapefruit, kiwi and passion fruit backed up by hints of white pepper and a note of freshly mown grass. Lively and refreshing and with just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now. NIS 70. Score 89. K

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2007: With its notes of melon, lemon, lemon peel and light hints of fresh sea air and minerality, this calls to mind a Petit Chablis. Developed sur lie for several months, showing fine crispness and liveliness, a very good bet for summertime drinking. Drink now-2009. NIS 60. Score 88. K

A special wine from Yatir

From time to time, a wine appears on the local market that is good enough to make one catch his breath with pleasure; so it seems to be on a regular basis with the release of Yatir’s flagship wine. Set in a state-of-the-art winery near the archaeological digs of Tel Arad at the foot of the Judean Hills, this boutique winery draws its name from the Yatir Forest.

The winery, certainly one of the best in the country, currently produces about 120,000 bottles annually. Although the winery is owned by Carmel, it maintains complete autonomy under the supervision of Australian-trained winemaker Eran Goldwasser.

Yatir Forest, 2005: A full-bodied Bordeaux blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot. One third aged in new and two-thirds aged in old barriques for 15 months, this dark royal-purple to garnet, deeply aromatic wine casts intense orange and green reflections. Soft tannins and wood integrating beautifully and the wine opens with spicy berry and cassis aromas and flavors, those going on to show blackberries and an underlying and fascinating melange of bitter herbs. Long, generous and elegant but needs a bit more time in the bottle. Best 2009-2014. NIS 230. Score 94. K

Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2006: Rich and concentrated, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting its 10 months in barriques with gentle spicy oak. On the nose and palate: a generous and intriguing array of aromas and flavors, including currants, blackberries, plums, nutmeg, sage, vanilla with oak rising on the finish with hints of grilled beef and cloves. A fine wine but frankly overpriced at NIS 240. Drink now-2010. Score 91.

Avidan, Reserve, Shiraz, 2006: Deep garnet in color, dense, intense and full-bodied and unfolding on the palate to reveal soft, mouth-coating tannins, rich blackberries, dark plums and peppery spices, along with an overall fine balance. Long and generous. Drink now-2012. NIS 85. Score 89.

Avidan, Blend des Noirs, Orange, 2006: Garnet to royal-purple, an oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Medium to full-bodied, with ripe blackberry and cassis fruits, which open to show notes of orange peel and chocolate. Drink now-2010. NIS 85. Score 86.

Avidan, Blend des Noirs, Red, 2006: Aged in French and American oak for 10 months, a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah (45%, 35% and 20% respectively). Medium to full-bodied, with chunky, somewhat coarse tannins, showing straightforward berry and currant notes. A pleasant country-style wine. Drink now. NIS 85. Score 85.