Rogov’s Reviews: Recanati, Yarden, Castel, Galil Mountain, Flam, Vitkin, Dalton, Karmei Yosef
Posted on October 20, 2008
That which cheereth God and man
By Daniel RogovDuring the two-week period preceding Rosh Hashanah, Israelis purchase 40 percent of all the wine that is sold during the entire year. It’s not that people go on drinking binges during this time of year, but fine wine is increasingly perceived as part of the cultured way of life, especially when consumed in moderation, during meals with friends and family.
As recently as 20 years ago, the vast majority of wine consumed during the holiday season was red, sweet and of mediocre quality. Today, with both large and small local wineries producing vintages of enviably high quality, that is no longer true: Israel’s best wines can easily be compared with the better wines of France, Italy and California. Below is a review of several recently released wines, some kosher, all in a price range of NIS 48 to NIS 230. Each is deserving of our attention - both for the holidays or at any other time of the year.
W Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Full-bodied, dark garnet toward royal-purple, with once firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. Aged in barriques for 19 months, this blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, all from the Upper Galilee, shows fine balance and structure. On first taste black currant, blackberry and a hint of anise, followed by lightly toasted, near-sweet cedar and oak along with an appealing hint of black licorice. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2014. NIS 180. Score 93. K
W Recanati, Syrah, Reserve, 2005: Aged for 14 months in French and American oak, medium-dark garnet in color, with well-focused tannins and moderate spicy wood, finely balanced with black cherry, wild berry and cassis fruits and a hint of smoked meat in the background. At this stage the still-firm tannins hold the wine back a bit. Drink now-2010. NIS 95. Score 89. K
W Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for about 14 months, a full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet toward royal-purple, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Intense and multi-layered, opening with cherries and raspberries and proceeding to show currants and blackberries, all to a backdrop of brown spices. Long and generous, with the tannins rising nicely on the finish. Best 2010-2014. NIS 149. Score 92
W Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot, reflecting generous - though not exaggerated - oak, aging with still firm tannins and notes of vanilla and spices. On first attack black fruits, opening to reveal raspberries and blueberries, on a background of mocha and sweet-cedar. Give this one time and it will show a fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Has the structure for aging. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 149. Score 92
W Flam, Classico, 2007: A gently oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, showing currant, berry and black cherry fruits, complemented by hints of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and chocolate. Easy to drink, with just the right hints of complexity. Drink now-2010. NIS 79. Score 89
W Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2005: Brooding dark ruby-red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around black currants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Best 2010-2018. NIS 120. Score 92. K
W Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2004: Dark garnet toward purple, medium- to full-bodied, with tannins and wood integrating nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, supported by minerals, sweet cedarwood and, rising on the medium-long finish, an overlay of spices and tobacco. Drink now-2011. NIS 105. Score 90. K
W Castel, Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2007: Gold, with green and orange tints, deeply floral, full-bodied and with generous but not overpowering oak that parts comfortably to reveal a complex array of citrus peel, summer fruits, hazelnuts, vanilla and crisp minerals. Lively and complex. NIS 170. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K
W Galil Mountain, Barbera, 2006: Dark, almost inky ruby toward garnet in color, with its impressive 15% alcohol content in fine balance with wood, tannins and fruit. On the nose and palate, blackberries, blueberries, plums and violets supported nicely by notes of vanilla, milk chocolate and, rising on the long finish, notes of black pepper. Generous, gently mouth-coating tannins and fine concentration. Drink now-2011. NIS 59. Score 91. K
W Galil Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark ruby toward garnet, medium-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and showing an appealing array of blackberry, blueberry and cassis, on a background that hints nicely of mint and bitter-sweet chocolate. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 88. K
W Galil Mountain, Merlot, 2007: Royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with silky tannins and showing a generous berry-cherry-raspberry personality, on a background of sweet peppers, Madagascar green peppercorns and mint. Nothing overly complex here but a lovely wine on its own or with a host of foods. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 88. K
W Galil Mountain, Shiraz, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and showing an appealing array of cherry, wild berry and peppery notes, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 89. K
W Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot, reflecting its aging in new French barriques with cedar and vanilla notes, opening to reveal black currants, black cherries and figs, on a backdrop of sourdough bread. Toward the finish hints of mocha and tobacco that rise nicely. Drink now-2013. NIS 105. Score 91
W Vitkin, Carignan, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Made entirely from Carignan grapes and developed in new 360-liter French oak casks for 15 months. Full-bodied, with firm tannins just starting to settle in, deep garnet in color and showing fine extraction. On first attack, shows primarily spicy black fruits, yielding to “let loose” notes of mint and freshly turned earth. Warm and generous with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Best 2009-2012. NIS 90. Score 89
W Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2006: Dark royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing firmly tannic and with a somewhat heavy note of wood. Maintains a good balance between still-firm tannins and spicy wood that allows the fruits to sow nicely. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and mint notes, those lingering nicely. Best 2009-2012. NIS 120. Score 90
W Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2006: Blended with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in barriques for 12 months, deep garnet toward royal purple in color, with once-gripping tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. Full-bodied, the wine opens to reveal a core of plums, blackberries and blueberries, on a background of exotic spices and hints of chocolate and mocha that linger nicely on the palate. Drink now-2012. NIS 120. Score 90
W Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: Soft and round but well focused, opening in the glass to reveal silky tannins and a gentle touch with the wood, supported by currant, berry, cocoa and light hints of mint and black licorice, all of which linger very nicely on the palate. Drink now-2010. NIS 105. Score 90. K
W Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Not a complex wine but very nice indeed, showing ripe and distinctive for cherry, blackberry, plum and herbal aromas and flavors framed by notes of sweet-and-spicy oak. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 90
» Filed Under Israeli wine industry, Rogov Tags: Tags:Daniel Rogov
Comments
One Response to “Rogov’s Reviews: Recanati, Yarden, Castel, Galil Mountain, Flam, Vitkin, Dalton, Karmei Yosef”
Leave a Reply
Hi Avi!
We have plans to import all of the Flam wines mentioned of course. The Merlot Reserve blew me away (I’m biased, of course, but it’s true!).
Richard