David Rhodes’s “Favorite, Best or Most Interesting Wines” of the Israwinexpo 2012

This is a shortened list from a longer article for those who like lists rather than reading explanations. Some wines I consider the best of the expo, some sentimental favorites and some just intellectually stimulating and worth mentioning as being illustrative of emerging trends. A few special wines were all of the above

2009 Tishbi Single Vineyard Malbec
2009 Ramot Naftaly Malbec
2008 Teperberg “Terra” Malbec

2008 Yatir Petit Verdot
2009 Ramot Naftaly Petit Verdot
2010 Barkan Petit Verdot (barrel sample)

2008 Vitkin Carignan
2007 Carmel Appellation Carignan
2010 Recanati Carignan

2008 Vitkin Cabernet Franc
2009 Domaine Ventura Cabernet Franc
2009 Tanya “Hilel” Cabernet Franc
2009 Tulip Cabernet Franc
2011 Tulip White Franc

2008 Barkan Cabernet Sauvignon Altitude 624
2006 Villa Wilhelma Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
2007 Segal Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Tishbi Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

2008 Shiloh Merlot Reserve
2010 Gvaot “Herodim” Merlot
2008 Binyamina Merlot Reserve2009 Gamla Syrah
2009 Yarden Syrah
2005 Yarden Syrah (Magnum bottle)
and three single vineyard Syrahs from Avital Slopes, Yannatan and Tel Phares

2010 Gamla Chardonnay
2009 Yarden Chardonnay
2008 Yarden Chardonnay
2010 Yarden Odem Organic Chardonnay
2007 Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay

2011 Vitkin Pink Israeli Journey
2011 Binyamina Yogev Malbec/Carignan Rose
2011 Galil Mountain Rose
2011 Recanati Rose

2011 Vitkin Pink Israeli Journey
2011 Binyamina Yogev Malbec/Carignan Rose
2011 Galil Mountain Rose
2011 Recanati Rose

2009 Binyamina Late Harvest Gewurztraminer
2006 Tishbi Barbera/Zinfandel Dessert Wine
2010 Teperberg Late Harvest Riesling
NV Villa Wilhelma Sauvignon Blanc “White Port”

Honorable Mentions: Or Haganuz, Har Bracha (Mt. Blessing Winery) and Shoshana wineries.

Chef Alon Gonen

The following is reprinted from ESRA Magazine with permission of the author

Chef Alon Gonen – Zilum Meshaker : Alcohol Events

Recently, I had the opportunity to sit with Chef Alon Gonen in his Tel Aviv house. We talked about food and wine over some local Israeli cheeses and what he let me pick from his wine collection. First, we tasted a chilled bottle of 2010 Vitkin Riesling that paired well with pepper jack cheese and Gouda which we sliced with his razor sharp chef’s knife.

I had met Alon several times at different culinary events in Israel or we had bumped into each other at wineries as we both sampled wines at their source. A few months ago, I was lucky enough to be invited to one of his wine and food pairings for writers at his current gig as the executive chef at the Crown Plaza City Center’s “11th Floor” restaurant where and when I was convinced we’d eventually swap stories one evening. That evening featured Israel’s Teperburg wines paired with Alon’s cooking and served as proof of Alon’s assertion that he considers wine to be “another dish on the table” and that he takes great pride in being one of the few chefs in Israel who “is serious about wine”.

As we moved on to an aromatic bottle of 2009 Recanati Syrah/Viognier, we got into how his interest in wine with food has much to do with how he started as a chef. While training in Herzliya’s renowned Tadmor school, one of Israel’s most prestigious culinary programs, Alon’s class was asked if anyone spoke French. Alon answered in the affirmative and quickly found himself continuing his studies as an exchange student and intern at the Michelin star Gran Monarch restaurant in Chartier, France, 70 kilometers south of Paris. He had only planned to be there a month but after one month he must have made quite an impression, for the head chef asked him if he wanted to continue on salary as one of 20 international chefs. Alon wanted to consult with his family but his mentor pressed that if he wanted the position he would have to decide then at that moment without any consultation or equivocation whether he would sign up for a whole year. It was probably meant to be a test of his resolve at becoming a serious chef and as it played out Alon continued to work there in France for the next few years.

Alon developed under that tutelage but also developed a style of his own. Even though he’s quite capable of preparing an elaborate meal, he’s fond of taking fresh ingredients and letting them be the star of a meal. “A perfectly seared steak or a good piece of fish with the right amount of salt, pepper and butter” is what Alon favors for his own table, prepared on his garden grill just a short walk from the state-of-the-art kitchen at the Crown Plaza. His garden features an assortment of fresh fruit including lychees and passionflower which find their way into dishes or as a raw treat to guests.

Alon would return from France to Israel to eventually launch the Speedo restaurant in Tel Aviv’s swanky port district. It was a source of honor for him that his mentor from France would come for the opening, since he had not previously ever left France and at the time of his invitation hadn’t even possessed a passport and Alon even offered to pay for the ticket to seal the deal. As many chefs of note tend to do, Alon moved on to other ventures, including a one-and-a-half-year stint at Tel Aviv’s noteworthy Italian Don Vito, before winding up with the first restaurant of his own – El Barrio – which he believes was Tel Aviv’s “first authentic tapas bar”, and which he helmed for five years before a motivated buyer convinced him to sell. He took that opportunity and with his cash-filled pockets went back to his culinary roots for a few months’ respite in Chartier, France. On returning to Israel he went to work as a chef without a kitchen for three years, working mostly at events for Israeli wineries such as notable boutiques, Agur, Bravdo, Tulip and Tzora, where he would highlight how to pair food well with wine. He continues this focus at the Crown Plaza today.

As we finished the evening over a rare premium Californian bottle of 2000 Francis Coppola Director’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, he was thankful that I had chosen to open this wine which neither of us had tried before but soon relished. Alon was leaving the next day to open up the kitchen for Israel’s Chinese Embassy, where he would be staying in another Crown Plaza Hotel that featured 2,000 rooms and 12 restaurants. This would be his third Embassy opening as he had previously launched kitchens for Israel’s embassies in Paris and Berlin, but as much as he enjoys the challenge and the travel his heart beckons him always to return to his beloved Tel Aviv.

Vitkin Winery

David Rhodes discusses Vitkin Winery on Rusty Mike Radio, click here to hear David Rhodes’s Israeli Wine Show on Vitkin

Petite Sirah? Yes, Sirrah!

(The following is a guest post from Irene Sharon Hodes, reprinted with permission)

I had the opportunity to taste a wine that is new to me, Vitkin’s 2006 Petite Sirah. A friend brought the bottle to the vegan dinner party I hosted last Friday (an exceptional experience I really need to get on to blog about).  She knew that I adore Syrah, but made the common mistake of mixing the two varietals.

Israel is one of the relatively few wine regions growing Petite Sirah, officially known as Durif, as a single-varietal wine.  Not to be confused with Syrah, the Petit Sirah, although related, is a different grape altogether.  In the past it has been considered only as a “filler” for other more grand and accepted varieties, or a straight-to-jug kind of cheaper swill. In fact, during my wine training, this is essentially how this variety was presented.

Not so, anymore.  To quote from Wikipedia on Israeli Petite Sirah:

In Israel, Petite Sirah had a history much like that in California—historically used as a blending grape to add body to inferior wines. However, Petite Sirah has recently experienced somewhat of a revival, both in high-end blends and bottled as a single or majority variety. TheUC Davis-trained winemaker and Ph.D. chemist Yair Margalit, familiar with the grape from his time in California, showed that Petite Sirah need not be consigned to jug wine when he blended small portions into his reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Seeing that Israeli terroir could grow great Petite Sirah, wineries such as Recanati followed suit with Petite Sirah blends, while others like Sea Horse, Carmel, and Vitkin have made single-varietal Petite Sirah in addition to using it for blending.

Going back to this particular bottle, I found it delightfully complex. Although closed and young-feeling, it was still a real treat to be drinking something so different from the norm.  A mature many-layered aroma, it was a peppery wine, light fruit, with a really great acidity.  Deep deep dense purple color, just gorgeous.   It’s pretty different from my Syrahs, but I would certainly drink it again, despite the lack the rich dark fruits I so admire.

Reading about it on the Vitkin Winery website, however, I just learned that this wine is quite closed upon opening the bottle – something I really understand now – and they recommend opening it several hours before drinking.  Perhaps the claimed “meatiness” and richer fruits would have appeared had I done this.  This being reality, I personally think it’s quite absurd to think the average enthusiast (or even minor connoisseur) would do the research and think to open a bottle many hours before a meal AND to decant.  And this from a wine that’s been aged 16 months in oak barrels!  Perhaps the winery should have held onto the bottles for another year (it’s not like there’s a high demand for Petite Sirah).

All in all, I applaud Vitkin for taking the stand, being brave, and heralding once destitute varietals and creative new blends, including a Cab-Carignan-Petit Sirah Port and a the Israeli Journey Syrah-Carignan-Cabernet Franc table wine.

Israwinexpo 2010 Tel Aviv

Israwinexpo is coming back! This biennial professional Israeli wine event first occurred in 2006, then again in 2008, and is now coming back to Tel Aviv. Israwinexpo, along with Sommelier, are the two top wine events in Israel.

Open to the public only on February 10-11, 2010 from 16:00-22:00 (4PM-10PM), the Israeli wine tasting will be held at the Tel Aviv Fairgrounds & Exhibition Hall, the Ganei HaTaurucha. Those interested in more information or pre-ordering tickets can view the fair’s official website at http://israwinexpo.fairs.co.il/. If you pre-order tickets via the website (Hebrew only), you will get a discount and pay 49NIS instead of 60NIS at the door.

Participating wineries include:

  • DomaineVentura
  • Villa Willhelma
  • Tzion
  • Shilo
  • Avidan
  • Adir
  • Alexander
  • Bashan
  • Gvaot
  • Dalton
  • Galil Mountain
  • Vitkin
  • Tulip
  • Teperberg
  • Sea Horse
  • Chillag
  • Tzora
  • Tishbi
  • Binyamina
  • Recanati
  • Barkan
  • Carmel
  • Yatir
  • Noah
  • Golan Heights Winery
  • Saslove
  • Ben Haim
  • Amphorae
  • Lurie

Click on the image to see it in full size (Hebrew)

This is an event not to be missed! 60NIS for 10 tastings at the door and 49NIS if tickets are pre-ordered online. If you want to read my coverage of the event two years ago, check out Israwinexpo 2008 here and here.

It is also open to members of the trade on February 8 and on February 9-10 from 10AM-10PM. Attendance on the first day is by invitation only.

Journalists, importers and wine buyers can gain further information by sending an email to Ms. Michal Neeman at [email protected] Those wineries considering participating but not yet enrolled can send an email to Ms. Dganit Aharonov at [email protected]

Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion Features Israeli Wine

Stephen Brook, who visited Israel for IsraWinExpo 2008, has written an update to Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion. The Wine Companion is one of the classic books, which is in the library of every wine lover.

Over the years Stephen Brook has been a prolific author and his most famous book is his work on Bordeaux. He is a regular contributor to Decanter Magazine.

Hugh Johnson  wrote five editions of this book, which was first published in 1983. For this sixth edition, Stephen Brook has had a free hand to update where necessary. He obviously used his visit to Israel to good effect, because he has totally rewritten the section on Israel.

The leading five Israeli wineries according to Stephen Brook are:
1.= Castel, Golan Heights; 3. Clos de Gat, 4.= Carmel, Barkan. The full list is as follows:

Barkan *> ***
Binyamina *> **
Carmel *> ***
Castel ***
Chillag **
Clos de Gat **> ***
Dalton *> **
Ella Valley **
Flam **
Galil Mountain **
Golan Heights ***
Hevron Heights *>**
Margalit **
Recanati **
Sea Horse **
Segal *> **
Tanya *>**
Tishbi *>**
Tulip **
Vitkin **
Yatir **

(This article is adapted from an article that originally appeared on Wines Israel)

10 Up-and-Coming Wine Producers in Israel

According to Daniel Rogov and his 2009 Guide to Israeli Wine, here are the Top Ten Up-and-Coming producers of wine in Israel:

  1. PelterTulip Winery
  2. Tabor
  3. Assaf
  4. Odem Mountain
  5. Vitkin
  6. Savion
  7. Psagot
  8. Tulip
  9. Avidan
  10. Kadita

Hugh Johnson’s 2010 Wine Book Features Israeli Wine

This article about Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book first appeared on wines-israel.com

Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2010 is published already, even though it is only late August 2009. Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2010 features Israeli wineHowever early or not, it represents good news for Israel! No less than twenty six Israeli wineries have made this prestigious guide book, which is similar to the Michelin Guide but for wine.

The most encouraging thing is that a number of wineries have progressed in the ratings received since last year. This reflects the reality that Israeli wines are not only improving in quality, but being seen as such by one of the world’s most famous wine writers.

Two wineries succeeded to get the ultimate rating possible: the elusive four stars. Furthermore two other wineries had wines personally recommended by Hugh Johnson himself. The four wineries to receive pride of place were: Castel, Yatir, Golan Heights & Margalit.
The main highlight is that two Israeli wineries were awarded the prestigious, four star recognition. Four stars are usually awarded only to the very finest wineries in the world. Domaine du Castel received four stars and Yatir Winery was awarded three to four stars. This reflects great credit on Israel.
Furthermore two more wineries, Margalit & the Golan Heights, not only were awarded three stars, but also were honored to have a personal recommendation of one of their wines. The Margalit Special Reserve and Yarden El Rom Cabernet Sauvignon were singled out.

Some wineries were highlighted as having especially good wines in their price range. Those selected for good value wines were: Barkan-Segal, Carmel, Galil Mountain and Tabor.
The only winery left off from last year’s list is Amphorae. The only new addition is Agur Winery, which is included for the first time.

The Pocket Wine Book was first published in 1977. Since then it has become a vital source of information for wine lovers and connoisseurs alike. It is the world’s largest selling wine book and is published by Mitchell Beazley.

Hugh Johnson is the world’s most famous and prolific wine writer. His books like World Atlas of Wine, The Wine Companion, The Story of Wine, and The Art & Science of Wine are ‘must haves’ for any wine library.

The wineries listed and the ratings they received are as follows:

Four Stars ****
Castel
Three to Four Stars ***>****
Yatir

Three Stars ***
Golan Heights, Margalit

Two to Three Stars **>***
Carmel, Chateau Golan, Clos de Gat, Flam

Two Stars **
Barkan-Segal, Galil Mountain, Pelter, Recanati, Saslove, Tulip, Vitkin

One to Two Stars *>**
Agur, Chillag, Dalton, Ella Valley, Sea Horse, Tabor, Tzora

One Star *
Bazelet Hagolan, Binyamina, Teperberg, Tishbi

Vitkin Winery: Tasting notes from Daniel Rogov

(For the thread, go to Daniel Rogov’s wine forum)

Daniel Rogov recently visited the Israeli boutique winery of Vitkin. Here are his thoughts and tasting notes for the recent and soon-to-be releases of this Israeli winery.

Established by Doron and Sharona Belogolovsky on Moshav Kfar Vitkin on the central Coastal Plain, this winery released its first wines from the 2002 vintage. Bordeaux-trained winemaker Assaf Paz relies on Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Viognier, French Colombard, Johannisberg Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Muscat grapes from vintners in the Jerusalem hills as well as several other parts of the country. The winery, specializing in creative blends and producing several varietal wines, is currently producing about 35,000 bottles annually. The Vitkin series is of age-worthy wines, and the Israeli Journey wines are meant for relatively early drinking.

Vitkin, White Journey, 2008: A blend of 55% Viognier, 35% French Colombard and 10% Gewurztraminer, the Viognier aged in new French oak, the others sur lie in stainless steel tanks. Flowery on both the nose and palate, surprisingly happily by its crisp and refreshing acidity, and opening to reveal generous ripe summer fruits. Lively and refreshing. Drink now. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, White Journey, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: blend of 60% Viognier, 30% old vine French Colombard and 10% Gewurztraminer, aged on its lees partly in stainless steel and partly in large oak casks. Light to medium-bodied, freshly aromatic and showing red grapefruit, tropical fruit and white peaches on a lightly spicy background. Dry but with a very pleasant hint of sweetness. Finishes fresh and lively. Drink now. Score 88. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Combining the charms of Rhine and Alsace Riesling, light gold in color, medium-bodied, with fine balance between fruits and acidity. Opens on the nose to show white peach, grapefruit and white mulberries, those on a lightly spicy background. Give this one a bit of time and it may show a light petrol note. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2007: Light golden with a green tint, showing a delicate floral nose, that hinting of petrol and then opening to aromas and flavors of lemon and lime, green apples and a tantalizing hint of white pepper. A delicate and elegant wine. Drink now–2011.NIS 85. Score 89. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2006: Showing even better than at earlier tastings. Light gold in color, opens with a floral nose and goes on to reveal apricot, grapefruit, bitter orange peel and notes of green apples. Since release has come to show traditional Riesling traits – spicy and long, with the flowers of Alsace and the petrol note of the Rhine. Drink now–2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Pink Journey, 2008: Light cherry red, a rose primarily of Carignan and Syrah with small amounts of Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc blended in. Crisply dry and generously fruity, shows a low nose but opens to appealing aromas and flavors of strawberries, raspberries and black cherries, those with floral and spicy overtones. Medium-bodied, crisply dry and refreshing, strong enough to stand up to chicken and veal dishes. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 65. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Pinot Noir, 2007: Made from low yield vines and harvested early, oaked for 10 months, with silky tannins with just enough of a grip to catch our attention. Dark in color for a Pinot but showing fine varietal traits, opening with black cherry, red plums and raspberries, those supported nicely by notes of spices, cedar wood and minerals. Supple, fresh and rewarding. Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Drink now-2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Red Journey, 2007: Medium to full-bodied with soft tannins and gentle wood influences, a round and generous, deep garnet blend of Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Opens with a light floral note, goes on to red plums, currants and berries on a light peppery and earthy-mineral background, all leading to a tempting near-sweet finish.Drink now–2011. NIS 69. Score 87. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Carignan, 2006: Showing even better than at earlier tastings. Made entirely from Carignan grapes and developed in new 360 liter French oak casks for 15 months. Intensely dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with deep, firm tannins just starting to settle in, deep garnet in color and showing fine extraction. On first attack, shows primarily spicy black fruits, those yielding to “let loose’ notes of mint and freshly turned earth. Simuiltaneously concentrated and intense while warm and generous with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2020–2013. NIS 95. Score 91. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Ripe and polished, a blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot. Aged in new French oak for 15 months and showing gentle near-sweet cedar notes along with soft tannins that are integrating nicely. On the nose and palate currants and black cherries, those parting to reveal notes of toasted white bread, figs and tobacco. On the long and mouth-filling finish floral and mocha hints. Drink now–2013. NIS 115. Score 91. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2005: Made from old-vine grapes and oak-aged for 16 months. Full-bodied, impenetrably dark purple-black, with deep spicy overlays and firm tannins all coming together beautifully. On the nose and palate blackberry and blueberries, those matched nicely by notes of white pepper, peppermint, chocolate and cedar wood, and on the long finish enchanting hints of raspberry jam. Drink now–2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2006: Showing much as at barrel and advance tastings. Reflecting its youth with a dark royal-purple color, medium to full-bodied, with fine extraction and with lively notes of spices, white pepper, tobacco and cedarwood supporting generous blackberry and huckleberry fruits. Chewy tannins rise on the finish along with a hint of grilled beef. Best 2010–2014. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Mark Spivak tours the Israeli wine route

Mark Spivak, a wine reviewer who has written for the Palm Beach Post and Palm Beach Media Group, and other Florida and national magazines, and is the host of a wine show on NPR, recently visited Israel. After not visiting Israel for over 15 years, Spivak was in for a shock.  His past experience:

To put it bluntly, wine here used to suck, and that was a shame because there was no reason that Israel couldn’t make outstanding wine. This, after all, is one of the cradles of wine history. Wine was made here thousands of years ago, long before it was made in Europe. Wine is mentioned in the Bible many times. It has always been an important part of most Jewish religious ceremonies. Noah planted a vineyard. Spies that Moses sent to the land of Canaan returned with grapes. Jesus’ first recorded miracle was turning water into wine. Ancient wine presses and vessels have been unearthed all over the country. It’s been a part of this area for a long time, yet in previous visits I was rarely offered a glass of wine in anyone’s house and almost never saw a wine list in a restaurant. The wine just wasn’t very good, and quantity trumped quality in the roughly 10 wineries that were operating then.

His most recent experience:

Today there are somewhere between 200 and 300 wineries ranging from significant operations to many garagistas located all over the country. Israel is a land of an enormous number of microclimates capable of producing all sorts of wines, much like other “long” places such as Chile, California and Italy. There is land influenced by its proximity to the sea, there is desert, there are mountains and there are plains. There is reddish, mineral rich soil known as terra rosa, there is limestone, there are chalk deposits, and there mountains formed by basaltic lava flows. There is lots of sun. Basically you have every possible combination of soil and temperature that you need to produce good wine from almost any grape, and you have it all in a country the size of New Jersey. What’s been added in the last 10 years is the desire to make great wine. Israelis have become wealthier. Their standard of living is rising. They travel around the world. They see what other people eat and drink. Many have come home demanding better wine. Some have returned with the desire to make it, and I saw the same passion in the Israeli wine makers that I have seen in people who make wine all over the world. They feel they were born to do this and they are not going to stop until they are producing world class wine. Per capita wine consumption in Israel has doubled in the last 10 years, indicating that they are well on their way.

On Mark Spivak’s recent visit to Israel, he toured Vitkin Winery, Galil Mountain Winery, Bazelet HaGolan Winery, Golan Heights Winery, Ella Valley Vineyards, Sea Horse Winery, and Domaine du Castel. To see what he thought about these great Israeli wines, read the whole article.

SF Chronicle: Israel’s wine industry reveals it’s California roots

Interesting article about Israeli wine, especially Flam – whose father was the first Israeli to study at the University of California Davis’s winemaking program and was the winemaker at Carmel for decades. In honor of the Jewish Vinter’s event in California last weekend, several Israeli winemakers were there including Golan Flam (of Flam), Assaf Paz (of Binyamina and an advisor for Vitkin), Gil Shatsberg (of Recanati, formerly of Amphorae) and Ariel Ben-Zaken (of Castel).

Check out the article and check out the wine.

Rogov on Vitkin

In Daniel Rogov’s latest column in Ha’aretz, he tastes the interesting wine from Vitkin. This is a taste of Rogov’s thoughts:

Assaf Paz, the winemaker at Vitkin Winery, is doing some pretty strange things. The winery, a family affair producing about 40,000 bottles annually, has refused so far to fit into the standard mold. Instead of producing wines from ultra-popular grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, it has chosen to focus on grapes with less of a local following, such as Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Tempranillo.

More than that, Paz is making some pretty unusual blends. With one white combining Viognier, French Colombard and Gewurztraminer and one red a blend of Syrah, Carignan and Cabernet Franc, the winery is certainly moving in unusual directions.

Call all of this a little bit crazy if you like, but the oddest thing is that it seems to work – the results, which are quite definitely not run-of-the mill, are quite successful, and the winery already has won the attention of sophisticated wine drinkers.

Read the rest